A week off the grid cruising the Costa Smeralda archipelago, Sardinia.
On my latest trip across the ditch to Europe, I joined my family for a cruisy week onboard a sailing yacht to explore the Costa Smeralda region of Sardinia (North-East coast). We had a rough plan to slowly make our way to the South end of Corsica and back, exploring hidden coves and picturesque islands along the way. With little knowledge of the area and only a few recommendations from some local Italians back at the dock, we were underway. It was late afternoon by this point so we hoisted sails and cracked a beer, leaving it up to the wind to carry us North along the coast.
The water surrounding the coastline of Sardinia is unbelievably clear, easily 50m+ in some parts. I was blown away when I first jumped in, put my mask on and drifted down the anchor chain to 15m and sat on the sea bottom for a while looking around. I probably spent more time in the salt than out. White sandy beaches are scattered along the coastline and all types of boats from local ports and nearby European countries dotted the coves and rocky shores. Although some areas here can be crowded with boats there was still plenty of opportunity to find your own little slice of paradise to drop anchor for a quick swim or stay for a night or two.
Here’s a little insight into where we were and some spots we checked out along the way . . .
Sardinia, the Italian island floating right in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea.
Some spots we stopped for a swim or for the night.
Cruising out of the main port of Olbia on a Jeanneau 47.
After our first night onboard near Porto Rotondo, we woke ourselves up with a dip straight off the back of the boat. With the coffee on and the anchor pulled up we slowly set off to our next destination for the day, Isola Di Caprera. We explored the coastline here all day and spent hours in the water. Nothing better than snorkelling around the rocks and soaking up the rays on deck to introduce you to island life here in the Med.
Sailing from Porto Rotondo to Isola Di Caprera. Safe to say we were already quite in love with the scenery here. Deep blue sea and a light wind to carry us to our first island.
The tiny turquoise cove of Cala Coticcio, Isola Di Caprera.
“Isola Di Caprera” // Available in the 'Aerials’ category - BUY
Yep, makes me want to dive into that water all day every day.
The usual underwater Mediterranean scene, sea grass and a few small fish. Unfortunately not very lively around these parts, but nonetheless an unreal experience free diving with visibility this good.
“Sardinian Summer” // Available in the ‘Life On The Coast’ category - BUY
There is a well discovered beach here but be warned it’s not exactly made for crowds. Can only squeeze in about 10 people but 100 boats.
“Cala Coticcio” // Available in the ‘Aerials’ category - BUY
“Boats At Cala Coticcio” // Available in the ‘Aerials’ category - BUY
Our next day was filled with great sailing. We covered some good ground with a decent 10 knot breeze behind us as we navigated from Isola Di Caprera, through the channel of La Maddelena and mainland Sardinia, and onto a small trio of islands further out to sea where we would anchor for the night. Of course we weren’t short of epic swimming spots along the way . . .
What’s the first thing you do in the morning when your’e living onboard a yacht for a week? Backflip straight out of bed into the water of course!
A surreal experience swimming in water like this. It doesn’t get much clearer anywhere else in the world.
“Coast” // Available in the ‘Ocean’ category - BUY
Swim and lunch stop at Isola Spargi.
Dream set up. How’s that water?!
Afternoon exploration near Isola Budelli.
“Underwater Peaks” // Available in the ‘Ocean’ Category - BUY
“Colours of The Med” // Available in the ‘Ocean’ category - BUY
My brothers absolutely nailing the swan dive.
Nice one bros.
This was one of my favourite anchorages of the week. 3 islands clustered together to create a beautifully sheltered cove for yachts and shallow crystal clear water to swim in. I’d definitely recommend sailing out here for a night or two if you ever get the chance!
One of many countless hidden coves within the Costa Smeralda archipelago. Can almost guarantee your own private beach if you have your own boat and the will to explore.
“Hidden Coves” // Available in the ‘Aerials’ category - BUY
Watching the sun set after a day sailing and snorkelling with an icy G&T in hand, you bloody beauty!
We were well on our way to our target destination, the Port of Bonifacio on the South coast of Corsica, which you can just make out on the horizon of the next couple of photographs. Before we set sail, I jumped into the dinghy and set off across the bay to climb the peak of Isola Budelli. After some serious bush bashing I was at the top, and the view was spectacular . . .
Morning commute.
Not a bad view to start off your day!
Excuse the hairy legs, but how good’s this?
Now crossing to Bonifacio, Corsica. We checked out a beachy island on the way which was our first contact with French territory, île Lavezzi.
The Port of Bonifacio, Corsica.
Here you find a bustling harbour town with an impressive medieval clifftop citadel. After navigating the extremely busy waters of the marina, expect bow to stern traffic jams, we were off to explore the town. After a steep walk from the harbour, we were faced with impressive castle walls and vast views back over the Mediterranean. Most of the buildings are in their original old-town state makes it feel like you’ve travelled back in time. There were some daringly close balconies peering over the edge of the cliff too, I wouldn’t live there. Plenty of local restaurants, bars and shops so be prepared to get lost and spend your afternoon wandering.
For the rest of the week we spent our time cruising back to our home port of Olbia. Plenty of sailing, swimming, snorkelling, chilling and beer drinking to be had along the way. Although it was an epic experience exploring the busy Port of Bonifacio, it was very welcoming to have our own space back out in the islands. Here we are on the other side of Iles Lavezzi, and wait until you see how clear the water was here . . .
That’ll do.
Finally saw some decent sized fish! I spent some time chasing after the locals before swimming back out to deeper water . . .
“Sardinian Locals” // Available in the ‘Ocean’ category - BUY
The clearest sea water I have ever seen. Just when I thought it couldn’t get clearer, nature threw this at me. That’s my brother swimming under a 50 foot yacht and 20 metres of anchor chain to put some distance into perspective here. I think the vis could have been close to 100m.
Yep, that clear.
That night we were lucky enough to find our own private island to anchor, can’t beat that!
Our last day sailing this beautiful part of the world as we make our way back to home port. After we goggled at one of the world’s largest Superyachts and snorkelled our own piece of Sardinian coast, we found ourselves at surely one of the most stunning beaches in the area . . .
“Sardinian Coast” // Available in the ‘Aerials’ category - BUY
“Morning Rays” // Available in the ‘Ocean’ - BUY
Have a go at this thing. Russian billionaire owned Superyacht “Dilbar” which is currently the 4th largest in the world at an impressive 156 metres (512 feet). Worth US$800 million (or AUD $1 174 560 000) all you can do is stare at it with your jaw dropped.
“Sardinian Clarity” // Available in the ‘Ocean’ - BUY
Isola Mortorio. This island was home to easily the most beautiful beach we found all week, Spiaggia Di Mortorio. If you ever find yourself in NE Sardinia, do yourself a favour and hire a boat and get out here for the day, you won’t be disappointed.
“Spiaggia Di Mortorio” // Available in the ‘Life On The Coast’ category - BUY
“Boats” // Available in the ‘Life On The Coast’ category - BUY
“Isola Di Mortorio” // Available in the ‘Aerials’ category - BUY
“Sardinian Beach Scene” // Available in the ‘Aerials’ category - BUY
This guy, doing life right.
An epic sail beam reaching in 15 knot wind to send us home after an incredible time here in the Costa Smeralda region of Sardinia.
Saw something you like? All photos in this blog can be ordered as Fine Art Prints in you choice of size and finish, just shoot me an email and let me know which one you think would look unreal on your wall.
Cheers,
Piers